Since the shirt exists (I think the Egyptians first created the garment), it is fashionable to use precious elements to button it. Thus, for a long time, mother-of-pearl was perceived as very superior to wooden buttons. But an infinity of matter had to be used throughout the ages: gold or silver, bone or ivory, precious stones.
In the nineteenth century, the great bourgeoisie who loved to display its wealth developed the use of precious buttons to report. Not sewn on the shirt, it was then possible to possess large panoplies. This use of removable studs ( studs English) was made necessary by starching shirts. Indeed, the breastplates, collars and cuffs were so hard that you could not twist the fabric to pass the buttonhole. The separable collars were held by two pivot studs, the front ones were screwed on themselves and the cuffs, the cufflinks either fixed or hinged.
From what I could see and learn on the job, cuffs with old cufflinks are never double as the musketeers. They have a thickness and the English call it the ‘ barrel cuff ‘ or ‘ singlecuff ‘. This is for me the most stylish model, one that should be worn with the tuxedo for example. When he was starched, his wrist was stiff as cardboard. The outfit was then impeccable.
I think the blouse French cuffs was invented in the 20s for landing at the end of starching. After the First World War, this practice of hard collars and wrists faded very quickly. The clothes gained in comfort and ease of use. The cervix was finally sewn onto the body, and the dowels were abandoned, at least in everyday life, with the costume also emerging. But since the wrist is soft, it does not hold well with a cufflink. The idea is quite easy to follow.
A blouse of genius (perhaps a French if we believe the English name) therefore had the idea to double the wrist, to create the musketeer. History has not retained that. I called Miss Colban from Charvet, but she does not know either.
And for half a century at least, the musketeer’s wrist pleases the elegant people of the whole world.
But today it seems to me too heavy, too thick, not fluid enough. And I prefer a thousand times simple wrist cuff, the famous single cuff . More flexible, lighter, it is perfect and supports very well small cufflinks by too voluminous. It is also a more discreet wrist that can be used under a sweater: just wrap it around the wrist in the manner of conventional shirts.
Arrow House is specialized in this model, which she sells under the name Mixed Wrist because she sews a button at the edge of the buttonhole to use the wrist with or without cufflinks!
For my part, I almost get every shot to sell to my clients wedding shirts with such wrists. They appear more minimalist and modern.
If you want to try this model, it’s very simple. Take one of your button shirts and have a retoucher make a buttonhole in place of the wrist button. You will have a simple wrist!
Good week. Julien Scavini
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